In summary

We  left Edinburgh before dawn and had some final fun dodging tragedies on the way to drop off the car at the airport.  Paul and I took a plane "with propellers" across the Irish Sea to Dublin  to catch  our modern jet back to Newark and finally KC.  It was nice to be back in Dublin, even for a few hours.

London was fun but there was more that I would like to see there someday.  Being at Wimbledon was a dream come true and made up for the fact that Big Ben was under construction and hidden from view and Westminster closed the day we visited.  It was so much fun to watch Paul on the Rock and Roll tour and we recommend this to rock music fans.

Words cannot express the beauty of the Scottish Highlands and I learned a lot about this region and some of the people I come from.  It was just one big piece of eye candy along the way.   What truly made the trip was being with our dear friends, Tom and Cynthia.  Back in the days of yore, we talked about such a trip we would take someday while hanging out in our beloved off campus dive, Mike's Tavern.  After the five kids collectively from both of our families out of the house and about 35 years later, we had the time for this amazing journey.  I hope there will be another one before three more decades pass.  Thanks so much for including us, it was so much fun.

Paul often teases that I take him off to "cold and rainy islands" to chase strands of my DNA and bring the places I've read and dreamed about to life.  I promise to get you to your DNA trail in Germany or a "warm and dry" region in the near future.  Of course I say this as I'm looking into Northern Ireland holiday packages because I still have some history to chase there... Anyway, you make my dreams come true.

Last Day in the UK

September 21 - Packed up and ready to go to Stirling today.  Our first stop was the Dewar's Distillery, just outside of Pitlochry, and it was a very picturesque place and the odor of whisky hits you whilst still in the parking lot!

Boy did we find some crazy back roads on the way to Stirling, serves us right for taking the scenic route.  But Tom and Paul were brave driving warriors today...narrowly missing rock walls and rogue animals.




Finally, and more importantly, safely, we found the town of Stirling, our last stop on the Scottish tour.  On the edge of Stirling in the town of Falkirk, we visited the Falkirk Wheel (an engineering feat to connect canals) and my favorite, The Kelpies.  Both are recent additions to Scotland design and are amazing. 

The Kelpies are a monument to the horse powered heritage across Scotland.  The huge structures represent the heavy (draft) horses of Scotland that pulled the wagons, ploughs, barges and coalships that shaped the geographical layout of the Falkirk area. 







After settling into our B&B, we made our way into Stirling.  The castle was right down a path from our lodging and is beautiful surrounded by an ancient Celtic cemetery. 

Walking through Stirling made me feel like I was strolling through a Harry Potter-like town.  Note to McCollum Cousins - this was the last town where Grandma's Brownlee family lived before coming to America.  Grandma was a draft horse fan so I think she would have liked the history of The Kelpies. This is the Argyle region and we have some other ancestry in this area.  I think you would be proud to have a piece of your history from here. 

Battle of Culloden, Stones, and Border Collies

 September 20th -

Today we left Inverness to travel to Pitolchry and had an amazing day.  In the morning we stopped at the Battle of Culloden (1746) to see the sight of the final clash between the Jacobites and the English army.  The museum was terrific and we also took a guided tour of the battlefield which brought a lot of the history to life.  We heard more details of the origins of the conflict and how it changed the people of the highlands after that point in time.  Along the battlefield we saw the stone markers representing the clans that died there.  Another windy and cold day to be outside walking around a field, but it was worth it.

For you Outlander Fans - A short distance from Culloden we found the standing stones where Claire time traveled back to meet Jamie, and interesting enough the show takes place during the time of the Battle of Culloden.  Other than a TV show prop, these stones date back to very primitive times and early people used them for sun dials, burial chambers, and most likely a break from the strong Scottish wind!

Back in the car and along the way on scary back Scottish roads we came upon a sheep farm that have daily sheep dog demonstrations each day in the afternoon.  So we stopped along with a bus full of German tourists to watch the dogs in action.  It was amazing to see them work and how focused and smart these dogs are.  Tom and Paul even participated in the sheep shearing part of the demonstration.  Paul and I had our heartstrings tugged remembering our faithful Border Collie, Annie, that we had for 14 years, a lot of these dogs resembled her spirit and beauty.

And finally we found our resting place for the evening, The Inn of Tay, which is a quaint place right on a picturesque rushing river.  Great ambiance in the bar and wonderful food.  I finally tried Sticky Toffee Pudding and totally hooked.

Sadly, tomorrow is our last day in Scotland.  We're leaving Pitlochry today and heading to Stirling to visit the seat of Scottish freedom.  Hopefully we'll find some William Wallace Braveheart sights and a few other surprises too.  Stirling is close to some of my paternal side ancestry.
"Slan" for now!

Inverness

I really like Inverness. It is a quaint and fun town.  Note to Campbell kin; this is the last place Newt's great gramps can be traced. We're staying in this cool Victorian-like Airbnb that has wonderful and really interesting decor. We can look out the windows to Invernress castle.  For Outlander fans, Inverness is where claire and Frank had their second honeymoon, and where she found the stones to go back in time and meet Jamie!  I tried to sneak out and do the same without luck. Last night we went to a great pub to watch a soccer match with locals and then on to another pub with traditional Celtic music, a lot of fun.
Today off to see the Battle of Culloden and then on to Pitlochry.

Our cool house for two days

Inverness Castle

Dunvegan Castle

Today we trekked in the rain to Dunvegan Castle, still on the Isle of Skye.  This is an active castle of Clan McLeod (my peeps).  When Paul and I entered the front of the castle a German television station was doing a documentary and filmed the docent inviting us in and giving an introduction to the castle!  Paintings of the clan chiefs through the generations donned the walls and all kinds of McLeod memorabilia nicely scattered about.  I saw the famous 'Fairy Flag' (over a thousand years old) that has magical powers and protected the clan in battle for centuries.  There was a lot of history of the Jacobite Rebellion and stories of my new hero, Flora McDonald McLeod, who smuggled Bonnie Prince Charlie out of Scotland after the failed uprising.  There was even a lock of Prince Charlie's hair on display.

As we exited the castle, I was permitted to sign the "special guest book" reserved only for McLeod descendants to sign!  On the comment section I included my great grandmother's name, Nellie McLeod, so she could be with me.  After the castle we toured the surrounding gardens (in the pouring rain), and they were beautiful.  By the time we left we were soaking wet and went off to dry in a nearby pub.  Actually, we found the oldest pub in Skye and it was the coolest little place just off the bay on back roads.

Tonight is the last night in the Isle of Skye.  I am very proud to have genetic contribution from this beautiful and unique place.  This is a rugged island off the western Scottish coast and I imagine people had to be tough to live here in more primitive conditions.  No wonder my great grandmother was tough enough to raise twelve kids in the back country in Arkansas.  I can't believe people would leave this wonderous place but so many had to leave during the highland clearances and famine, and most ran into the arms of America to start a new life and help build our country.  I'm hoping my kids and my cousins can come to this place and get to know a little about who they are.
Tomorrow off to Inverness

Trotternish Tour

Sept. 16th -
Today we took a private tour of the upper peninsula of Isle of Skye provided by Roddy Angus McDonald!  It was a cold, windy, and rainy day in the highlands but being from this hearty stock, myself and my gang bravely traveled onward. We saw places such as, The Old Man of Stor, Kilted Rock, The Quiraing, Fairy Hills, and the Fairy Pools (feel free to look these all up).  Had a stop at the island brewery and whisky distillery, as well.  At the top of the Quirang, the scenery was so unique and beautiful as the hard winds blew us around on the peaks.  We were all in awe of the landscape.
Roddy talked about the clans that have represented this part of the island and country and Clan McLeod (my maternal great grandmother) was mentioned often.  He talked about the history of the violent feud between his McDonald ancestors and the McLeod's.  At the end of our day he asked if any of us had Scottish ancestry and I admitted to being related to the McLeod's.  Roddy said that he did not hold that against me even though my clan set his clan on fire or something creepy like that, and we could still be grand friends.  Between the Campbell massacre and the McLeod tale, Paul is wondering why he has not slept with a knife under his pillow that last 30 years.
I could give you more history of the things we saw but I'm going to let pictures tell the story as I cannot put it all in words.  Tomorrow we go to Dunvegan Castle.

Cynthia in the Fairy Mounds

The Quiraing

The Old Man of Stor

The Kilted Rock (supposed to look like the back of a kilt)

Slan for now

Oban Adventures!

Reference Maps

September 13th -

My very, very, brave husband drove the car out of Glasgow and on into the highlands.  Just a reminder that the driver's side is on the right side, manual transmission with the left hand, and driving on the left hand side of the road.  It is really scary to do and to be a passenger as our brains have to adapt.  He did a great job!

I got goosebumps as we drove through the highlands.  Admitedly becuase it was getting cold but more because it is so beautiful.  

On our way to Oban we stopped in Inverary which is the home to Clan Campbell (my maternal grandmother's side of the family).  We dropped by the Inverary Castle which has held the Campbell Chief for generations.  I was fortunate enough to go into the gift shop to look at clan stuff but sadly was not given a family discount (but I bought prizes anyway).  

Inverrary Castle

We have a lovely small hotel right on the water just north of Oban.  Made it in time for dinner and had one of the best seafood dinners ever in the hotel restaurant.  Tomorrow is a big day as we go on a three island tour just off the coast from Oban in the inner Hebrides.  Very excited!

View outside of our hotel in Oban

September 14th - Three Island Tour

We missed the first ferry out to the Isle of Mull due to no parking available in town and poor Paul ran across town trying to catch the boat thinking we had left without him.  So we caught the next ferry and boarded to the first island (Mull) and were quickly herded onto a bus and given a tour as we headed to the other side to catch our next boat to the Island of Staffa.  By this time the weather started to get cold and rainy  (we are very far north on the planet).  We were at the back of the line so didn't make it into the covered portion of the boat and crossed the western Scottish sea in the cold rain.  However, we donned nautical raincoats and sailed off in the pelting rain.

Thankfully, the rain stopped when we reached the second island. Staffa is a small uninhabited island covered in hexagonal basalt columns that stick up from the ground at various heights. This is the other end of the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland.

Silly scientists believe the isle was created by volcanic eruptions 60 million years ago.  However, the probable reason lies in Celtic folklore that the formations were a result of the heated rivalry between two giants, Fingal and Finn MacCool, who built a bridge out of these rock formations between the two islands to carry on their feud.  It was one of the coolest sights I have ever scene and was in awe.  We hiked up to the top to see the beautiful views and climbed down on the rock formations to see Fingal's cave.  Now I can't wait to see the other side in Antrim Ireland and visit Finn MacCool's side.

Again, we herded back onto the boat and thankfully it was no longer raining. I was very excited to go to the third island, Iona.  This is actually a pilgrimage for many as this was the place that St. Columba (an Irish Bishop from the year 521) brought Christianity to Scotland and built monasteries throughout Ireland, Scotland and the British Isles.  This is also the place where the Book of Kells was made, which Paul and I were lucky enough to see a few years ago in Dublin where they now reside. Iona is special to me because my maiden name, McCollum, is actually translated from Gaelic as "Son of a follower of St. Columba."  So we got to visit the Iona Abbey and grounds where probably my early ancestors might have followed St. Columba around...who knows!  The abbey was beautiful sitting just off the sea.

September 15th -

Happy birthday to my dear friend and current traveling companion, Cynthia.  Blessed to be spending your birthday with you in Scotland.  Early this morning we left Oban and headed for the Isle of Skye. On our way we stopped at Glencoe, the site where my Campbell ancestors kind of murdered a bunch of people from Clan McDonald during the Great Feud.  Funny enough, my great grandfather was a Campbell and his wife a descendant of the MacDonnell's of Ireland who were related to the McDonald's of Glencoe.  A couple of generations later these two people from warring clans fall in love and procreate my grandmother and her brothers...wow.  We took a nice stroll through the Glencoe trail and visited quaint places of the massacre and other family lore.

Found a piece of ancient remains from the clan in Glencoe.

Reflecting on the monument of the massacre between two sides of my family tree and feeling genetically confused.

The scenery was so beautiful on the way to Isle of Skye and found a wonderful pub and a great castle along the way. 

Isle of Skye is one of the islands of the inner Hebrides and we crossed a long bridge to get there and eventually found our cottage by a bay before dark.  Isle of Skye is home to my maternal great grandmother's clan, The McLeod's.  Tomorrow we have a private guide that is taking us through the Trotternish Peninsula which is the northernmost part of the isle.

September 12th In Scotland

We left London Town around dawn to catch our plane to Glasgow.  Paul and I decided to take a cab from the Glasgow airport since we didn't know where we were going and needed to catch up with The Rauzi's.  Within 20 seconds after getting inside the cab we were questioned about our American political leanings by the cabbie.  It was all in good fun.
Thankfully, we found Cynthia who was searching for us on a busy pedestrian street in downtown Glasgow.  The boys went off to sort out the car hire and Cynthia and I fled on foot and found the bagpipe museum where we learned about all things bagpipes.  We even got to try our hand at the pipes and sadly I discovered that I suck at playing bagpipes.  A little disheartening given my Irish/Scot genetics. 


We ate lunch at the famous Willow Tea Rooms designed by the famous Charles Rennie Macintosh.  Later on we went to the modern museum of art and another interactive art show.  The boys turned in early and Cynthia and I found a nearby Irish bar and witnessed a near brawl...good times! 

Tomorrow we head to Oban in the highlands!

Catching Up - September 11th in London

Sorry we are behind with travel updates.  We ran out of time toward the end of London and had to catch an early plane to Glasgow.  But I made notes and can fill you in.

Tuesday - September 11th in London
The day did not get off to a promising start.  We finally got up on time and moving in the right direction and wanted to make the most of our last day in London and catch up on some of the sights on our list.  So off we headed to Westminster Abbey which was third highest on my list, and weaved our way on foot to stand in front of this beautiful church. As we were gazing up at this beautiful structure eager to get in, we noticed the sign that said, "Closed on Tuesday."  After a few swear words and near tears, muttering things about who wanted to see the place where there have been royal weddings, burials, and coronations through the centuries, I collected myself and off to the Churchill War Rooms down the street.  The line was a mile long and they said it would be a long wait.  Damn.  So off we raced through St. James Park to Buckingham Palace to catch the changing of the guard.  Luckily, we found a great spot to watch and our noses were pressed against the wrought iron fence in anticipation...right before there was an announcement there would be no changing of the guard today.

                                            Westminster Abbey where we did not get to visit

Frustration with a side of depression was setting in but luckily the Royal Mews, where the Queen keeps some of the Royal horses and related equine regalia, was around the corner.  It is a working stable and the minute I caught sent of the familiar odors of a horse barn my mind and body calmed (it’s a horse-girl thing).  This place was really cool!  We got to see some of the horses that pull the carriages during royal weddings, the Queen’s Jubilee, and other formal outings.  The golden carriage commissioned in 1760 was on display and it has been used in the past five coronations of queens and kings. 

Buckingham Palace 

where we did not see the changing of the guard

Queens Jubilee Carriage at the Royal Mews

                                                       Krissy the Equestrian Guard

                                                                

Tomorrow Glasgow to meet up with the Rauzi’s in Glasgow Scotland!!